After a few months in New Zealand, I travelled to Vanuatu, a small group of islands in the middle of the Pacific, in mid-January 2020. There I worked for Okeanos Foundationwhich build traditional catamarans, known as "vakas", and use them for supply trips in the Pacific region. The aim of this non-government organisation is to build an independent, sustainable network that is run by locals for locals.
We sailed to the Shepherd Islands once or twice a week. These islands are not visited by any other supply ship because often no more than 80 people live there. However, the state of Vanuatu consists of around 100 such islands. Therefore, there is a need for transport: up to eight passengers fitted on the twin-hulled sailing boats in addition to the crew. Basic foodstuffs, such as rice, but also hygiene products and learning materials were transported. On the return journey, we often took fish, plants and fruit back to the main island, which were then sold at the market by family members.
My job was to help out in the office, coordinate passengers and freight and reorganise the warehouse. I was able to really help out by giving computer tuition and repairing technical equipment. In return, I was able to join the supply trips and not only learnt about sailing in the original way, but also about Melanesian culture.
The "Ni-Vans" - as the inhabitants of Vanuatu call themselves - get by on very little money and don't seem to be unhappy about it. They have everything they need to live practically right on their doorstep: the most delicious fruit grows on the trees, the sea provides them with fish and the temperatures are such that it is pleasantly warm all year round. That's why they say that their life just consists of eating and talking. Sounds relaxed - and it is. The Ni-Vans practically never think about tomorrow. This can also mean that they have nothing left in their pockets two days after a salary payment because they have spent it straight away. In particular, they use it to buy kava, a drink that has a slightly anaesthetic effect. At a place called "Nakamal", people drink it in the evening in a relaxed atmosphere, like the after-work beer here.
